Hengoed to Rhymney on Rhymney Valley Ridgeway Walk

My Ordnance Survey Explorer maps show that the Rhynmey Valley Ridgeway Walk has a section from near Hengoed to Rhymney. I followed the route marked on the map, from railway station to railway station, but apart from one waymark, I found no signs on the ground indicating where the Ridgeway walk was intended to go. Based on the map it goes north following the ridges on the west side of the Rhymney valley, and is a mixture of pastoral farmland and open moors with some interesting historic remains.

I started at Hengoed railway station and initially followed the same route through Penallta Country park that I followed in my "Hengoed to Cefn Onn" post, passing men enjoying their Saturday morning fishing in the small lakes in the park, with the surrounding silver birch leaves gradually turning yellow. Difficult to imagine that it is actually an old coal tip. After the park I turned north by the bridge across the railway line. The map showed the footpath heading over marshy fields, although I could see little or no sign of a path in the fields. After these fields the route briefly goes through part of Penallta park before more fields. The typical yellow arrows showing where a footpath goes were missing, damaged or else destroyed. One might imagine that the farmer disliked a footpath crossing his fields however, the lack of direction indicators just means that people like me wander around their land searching for the correct route, a job made more difficult as some of the field boundaries shown on the map are no longer there, and new fences have been added.

Damaged direction indicators including one of the only Rhymney Ridgeway signs on this section

Carefully trying to follow the map around the back of some houses I reached Gelligaer, where I rewarded myself with a very nice pork pie from one of the shops (trying to convince myself that my walking would burn up the excess calories). On another occasion I would probably take a different route, either that given for this path in the Cicerone book "Walking in the South Wales Valleys", or there must be some way up through Penallta Country Park.

The path goes through the graveyard beside Gelligaer church (from where I heard the sounds of organ music) and then follows the waymarked "Roman Walk" which takes you past what are reported as extensive Roman remains. Sadly only some uneven ground and humps are now visible of the fort, bathhouse, granaries and other archaeology, which were excavated back in 1900.

After crossing further fields you reach Gelligaer common, where (after passing two dead sheep) I went from track to track keeping on the right hand side of the stream as shown on the map until I reached the next road section. The map shows more Roman remains but they are difficult to spot, and I missed the Celtic cross marking the site of Capel Gwladys that I visited on a previous occasion.

After this section of moor, a good path takes you down into a pretty, steep-sided, wooded valley and up to some houses with a community area, with benches and a hut, tucked in behind. Climbing up out of the valley there are more fields as you cross into a new valley. If you look carefully you can see a grassed over slag heap on the other side of the valley, more remains of the old coal mining industry. Eventually you cross another stream and reach a gravel road along the ridge. This brings you to the atmospheric Capel Birthdir. There is a graveyard, recording the lives of the long deceased, the remains of the chapel and a replica of the Celtic cross that was found here. Shortly after is another replica, of Tegernacus' stone (he was son of Martius') which commemorates his death. The original, which dates from the seventh century or earlier, is held elsewhere for safe keeping.

Capel Birthdir replica Celtic cross

The road continues along the ridge across open moors, rough ground with rushes, populated with sheep and cows, which have an empty beauty. There are distant views to far off mountains and the occasional peaceful looking village. Sadly there are those who seek to destroy this beauty, dumping fridges, old toys, plasterboard and empty beer cans beside the track, too lazy or stupid to dispose of their rubbish in its rightful place. Beside the track is a strange, metal structure which is the Brecon DVOR. This is a beacon that emits VHF signals that aeroplanes can use to work out where they should be going. More information here.

I continued along the ridge, the ground dropping into the Rhymney valley with its ribbon development of houses to the east. It seems a good spot for paragliders, with several circling around miraculously gaining height as the soared over the slope. At first I though they must have motors, but no, it was just the wind and the thermals.

Paragliders above Rhymney

The last section of the Rhymney ridgeway walk after the houses at Fochriw is across moorland with no particular path evident. At first you just have to struggle across rushes and muddy patches following occasional tracks and sheep paths in a NNW direction. However after crossing a stream the presence of fences makes it difficult to determine where best to go. This is my second time of trying to follow the route marked on the map and again I had to divert and drop down to the road by an industrial estate to avoid the risk of being forced to climb over barbed wire. This meant the remaining few kilometres to Bute town were along a road, fortunately with a pavement. On another occasion I might be tempted to miss out this section, unmarked by any arrows or signs, and head down to Pontlottyn railway station from Fochriw.

Bute town is an interesting "model village" built by the manager of the ironworks that used to be in Rhymney in the early 19th centuary. From Bute town there is a pleasant walk by a small river that takes you down to Rhymney railway station.

Bute town

Walk back to Rhymney

My walk was 25 kilometres long, with a total ascent of 447 metres. A gpx file of the trail can be found on wikilocs and also on Viewranger, code johnpon0009.